Part of our Cut & Sew knit drafting series: Drafting a Scoop Neckline for Knits. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
Ready to wrestle some knits? Our latest lesson continues our journey into the wild world of cut & sew knit pattern drafting — where fabric stretches, stitches dance, and woven rules simply don’t apply. Drafting for wovens is one thing, but working with knits? That’s a whole different zoo.
University of Fashion knit foundation lessons: Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
If you haven’t already mastered the mysterious math of stretch ratios, check out our lessons Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles. Because when your fabric bounces back like an overcaffeinated bungee cord, you’d better plan your design details accordingly.
Planning the neckline draft. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
In this lesson on drafting a scoop neckline, we’ll start with how to “read” a fashion sketch — basically translating a pretty drawing into practical pattern geometry. You’ll figure out how far to scoop that front and back neckline and how to decide the sweet spot where shoulder meets neck.
We’ll also walk you through several neckline finishes: a clean fold-over edge if you’re going sleek, a classic binding if you like structure, or the self-finished neckline and armholes trick (that’s two backs and two fronts — fashion math at its finest).
Sewing tip on how to keep the scoop neckline and armhole from stretching (Image credit: University of Fashion).
And because knit necklines love to stretch out like gossip at a fabric sale, we’ve included a pro secret: stabilize them with ¼” (6mm) clear flat elastic — cut just a wee bit shorter than the neckline and armhole circumference. Your future self (and your garments) will thank you.
Master this neckline and elastic trick, and knits stop being “high-maintenance divas” and start behaving like your most loyal wardrobe besties.
But There’s More
University of Fashion’s 3-part knit sewing series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
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