Image background is an example of “whitework” lace. (Image credit: University if Fashion).
At the University of Fashion, we believe lace shouldn’t be terrifyingly mysterious — it should be fabulously mysterious.
In UoF’s lesson, Lacis — Lace Museum learn about types of laces, lace history and lacemaking tools. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
Our lace lesson takes you on a little field trip (virtually, of course) to the enchanting Lacis Museum in Berkeley, California. There, Museum Director Erin Algeo will help lift the veil (pun absolutely intended) on the delicate art of lacemaking.
Erin Algeo- Lacis Lace Museum curator & UoF instructor. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
In our lesson, Lacis — Lace Museum, you’ll get up close and personal with lace history and the tools that look like they belong in both a sewing kit and a medieval torture chamber — because, well, lace is serious business.
Examples of 17th Century Men’s & Women’s lace collars.
By the end, you’ll be able to tell your Alençon from your Chantilly, your Battenberg from your Cluny, and maybe even drop “Point de Gaze” into conversation just to sound fancy.
The True Laces
Let’s start with the “real deal” of the lace world — the equivalent of haute couture. There are two types considered the true laces: bobbin lace and needle lace.
Bobbin Lace
Example of how Bobbin lace is made. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
Bobbin lace is made on a pillow using bobbins that hold threads, which are then woven and knotted into mesmerizing patterns. Think “spider weaving after three espressos.”
Needle Lace
Example of how Needle lace is made. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
Needle lace, on the other hand, is made entirely with — you guessed it — a needle and thread, using endless variations of the humble buttonhole stitch. Bobbin lace came second in history, but honestly, both techniques are so breathtaking you’ll forgive them for sometimes impersonating each other.
Wannabe Laces (But Still Fabulous)
Example of a Battenberg lace using tape lace technique. (Image credit: shannonbassano.substack.com)
Then we have the “wannabe” laces — not true by historical definition, but every bit as gorgeous. Case in point: Battenberg lace. You’ve seen it on vintage tablecloths, maybe even your great aunt’s Sunday best. These laces use tape lace techniques, with a pattern laid out in tape (once made by hand, now machine-stitched) and joined together with — you guessed it again — needle lace stitches. The result? A looping, romantic masterpiece that doesn’t mind being called a “wannabe.” After all, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Battenberg deserves a standing ovation.
Our Lace-Sewing Lessons
UoF’s 3-part lace-sewing series: Lace Appliqué Blanket Stitch & Overcast Stitch and Lace Overlap Seam. (Image credit: University of Fashion).
University of Fashion also has a lace-sewing series. We’ll take you beyond simply stitching lace fabric—you’ll learn the couture-level sorcery behind sewing with lace. First, you’ll discover how to extract a motif from lace yardage (no magic wand required) and appliqué it onto silk organza or another fabric of your choice, using either a blanket hand stitch or an overcast technique—depending on the temperament of your lace.
Next, we’ll unveil the secret to creating a seamless lace seam—the kind that separates couture craftsmanship from the “craft fair” look. You’ll also master how to apply this technique to darts and other tricky areas to reduce bulk and preserve your lace motifs in all their delicate glory. These methods are the backbone of your bridal, evening, and lingerie designs that whisper couture elegance rather than shout assembly line.
Final Thoughts
So, whether you’re a lace novice or a seasoned stitch whisperer, by the end of this University of Fashion journey, you’ll see lace in a whole new light — not just as trim for collars and cuffs, but as an intricate language woven from history, patience, and a touch of magic. After all, behind every loop and twist is a story hundreds of years in the making — and now, it’s one you’ll recognize the next time you spot a bit of Alençon peeking out from a vintage gown or a whisper of Chantilly on the runway. Lace, mysterious? Absolutely. But now, fabulously so.
